Straight-of-grain Waistband Made Easy

If you enjoy sewing apparel, chances are that you'll encounter waistbands cut on the straight-of-grain frequently, especially with the popularity of separates in our wardrobes. In fact, so many of our garments have waistbands, and we open and close them so often, we tend to take them for granted. So let's take a look at why these waistbands deserve closer attention, and how to sew perfect ones.

Functions of a waistband

Waistbands are one way to finish the top edge of skirts, pants, and other separates. They're also part of the opening that provides entry for the garment. And perhaps most importantly, they anchor the garment at or near the waist. This small strip of fabric performs a big job: a waistband "carries" the entire garment.

Structuring waistbands

Because of these various functions, it's very important that waistbands are supported properly, which is accomplished through interfacing the waistband fabric. There are many interfacing materials that can be used, and the best one to choose depends on the amount of support and structure that's required for the particular garment style, fabric, and width of waistband. (Typically, wider waistbands need more support than narrower ones.) By experimenting with fusible interfacing, sew-in interfacings, and products specifically made for making waistbands, you'll discover which give you the results you like the most with specific fabrics and styles.

Selecting a waistband interfacing

The best way to choose which interfacing product to use for the inner support of a waistband is to make several test samples for each garment you make. Simply apply a few different interfacings to scraps of fabric after you've cut out the garment. With your fingers, feel the difference between the samples. You can also make a practice waistband if you want to make sure the interfacing in question will do a perfect job. Place the practice waistband around your body and try bending over and sitting. Does it keep it's shape or does it fold over? Is it too stiff? Does it feel comfortable? You'll also want to take into account what kind of wear the garment will receive; what kind of cleaning process the garment will undergo; and what type of closure the waistband will have.




Waistband materials

Waistbands are usually cut from the same fabric as the garment. Patterns generally call for the length of the waistband to be cut using the fabric's length-of-grain. This is preferable because the cross-grain normally has more inherent give than the length-of-grain. For design purposes, waistbands can be made from contrasting fabrics, or even from ribbon or other trims.

How wide should a waistband be? Most frequently, waistbands are either 1-1/4" wide or 1-1/2" wide, but there is no rule that says you must make your waistbands either of these widths. Some people like a narrower waistband - even as narrow as 3/8"; others prefer a wider waistband - 2" or more. Both comfort and style (design) will influence how narrow or wide you choose to make your waistbands.

Getting a comfortable circumference. Some people prefer snug waistbands and others prefer a looser fit. Commercial patterns have approximately 1" of ease in the waistband pattern (i.e., the finished waistband will be 1" larger than the waist measurement for the given size). But people's preferences vary a lot: some people like their waistbands equal to their actual waist measurement; some like their waistbands larger than their waist measurement; and some people like their waistbands smaller than their waist measurement. This is a personal choice - and part of the benefit of getting custom tailored garments is that you can make a waistband fit exactly how you like it!

Waistband closures

Some people choose a buttonhole and button closure, while others prefer a skirt/pants hook and eye (this is a flat hook-and-eye set that is about 1/2" long). The choice is yours, depending on the look you want to create. Using a hook-and-eye closure results in a very clean looking garment, while buttons can be a decorative element.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Types Of Cloth

Mohair

Mohair is the hair from the Angora goat. It is distinctive from wool, in that it has a different fibre structure, which hangs in ringlets and is exceedingly fine, soft and silky.

The name ‘Angora’ originates from the province of Angora in Turkey where these goats have been farmed for centuries and are said to have descended from the Cashmere goat. To achieve the best quality of Mohair fibre, the fleece should be shorn from goats under eight years old, after which time the hair becomes too coarse. The first clipping from the Angora goat is called ‘Kid Mohair’ and because it is the first ever clip, the fibre tends to be the softest.

Mohair is the most durable of all animal fibres, with natural lustre and resistance to dirt and creasing. Angora goats thrive in habitats of high altitude, warm climate, abundant grazing pastures and fresh water.

As with wool, mohair can be spun on the woollen or worsted system. Worsted mohair suiting fabrics have a clean, crisp handle with a bright, lively surface as the natural lustre of the fibre is used to full effect. They are light in weight, and yet the strength of the fibre guarantees a hard wearing, long lasting cloth.

Vicuna

Inca legend tells of the vicuna as the reincarnation of a beautiful young maiden who was wooed by an old, ugly king. She would only consent to his advances if he promised her a coat of pure gold. This is how the vicuna came to have its golden fleece. Considered sacred by the Incas, only royalty were allowed to wear the vicunas precious fleece, also known as the fibre of the gods. The attraction of vicuna fleece has not diminished with time; today, vicunas continue to be worshipped as sacred animals by the indigenous Aymara Indians of Peru and Bolivia. The incredibly soft and luxurious handle of the vicuna fleece has made this shy and diminutive creature a most sought-after treasure since the time of the Incas. These revered mammals are to be found in the extreme heights of the Altiplano regions of the Andes, most commonly in Peru. A vicuna’s fur is thick but soft and the fibre length is rarely more than 25mm making it more suitable for woollen spun fabrics. However, the fibre that has been used to produce this range of fabrics has a staple length greater than 30mm; making it the first vicuna fibre to be spun into yarn using the worsted spinning system

Silk

Silk is a natural protein fibre spun by the silkworm as it makes its cocoon and is one of the strongest natural fibres. Silk has always held a special position as a quality fibre, and was originally reserved for the Emperors of China, but quickly became popular throughout Chinese culture, Asia and beyond by means of the Silk Road.




The Silk Road refers to the extensive trade routes across Asia, connecting North Africa and Europe. This network extended over 8,000km and enabled traders and merchants to transport luxury goods including silk, rubies, diamonds and pearls across the continents.

Silk fibres have a triangular cross section with rounded corners, allowing light to reflect at many different angles giving a natural shine and lustre. Appropriate for all climates, the naturally good moisture absorbency of silk allows the fibres to maintain their insulation properties making silk cloth comfortable to wear even in warm climates.

Cotton

Cotton is a soft, vegetable fibre that grows in a form known as a boll around the seeds of the cotton plant, a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, India and Africa. Successful cultivation of cotton requires a long frost-free period, plenty of sunshine, and a moderate rainfall.

The fibre can be spun into yarn or thread producing a soft, breathable textile. Cotton has been spun, woven, and dyed since prehistoric times, clothing the people of ancient India, Egypt, and China.

Europeans knew little about the origins of cotton prior to the 15th Century. Up until this time they believed cotton to be derived from a sheep-bearing plant, noting its similarities to wool.

Legend told of a wonderful tree which grew in India and bore tiny lambs on the ends of its branches. These branches were so pliable that they bent down to allow the lambs to feed when they were hungry. The advent of the Industrial Revolution in Britain provided a great boost to cotton manufacture, as textiles emerged as Britain's leading export.

Linen

The manufacture of linen yarn and fabric is a complicated process, one that requires skill and expertise from the cultivation of the raw flax plant, to the combing and processing of the fibres in preparation for spinning and weaving. The use of linen dates back to ancient times; it was the first known textile fibre in the world, with the earliest traces of its use dating back to 8000 BC. Linen has also been discovered in Egyptian tombs wrapped around the mummified bodies of pharaohs, it was seen as a symbol of light and purity, and a display of wealth.

Linen is highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat, keeping the body cool when worn in hot climates. It has a smooth, lustrous surface with a natural resistance to dirt and staining and is the strongest of the vegetable fibers, with two to three times the strength of cotton.

Linen fabrics have a high natural lustre, with the ability to absorb and lose water rapidly, gaining up to 20% moisture content without feeling damp. The natural look of linen cloth is an elegant choice for casual wear, warm weather, weekends and holidays.

Fashion Mistakes

Why be concerned with your appearance?

Is it really that important to your career, romance, or influence over others?
Absolutely!!!
It’s a scientific fact that people who don’t know you make up their minds about you on a subliminal/prehistoric basis in 30 seconds or less. This evaluation of you by others takes place so quickly and is so entrenched in the human brain that it is not usually conscious thought.
Behavioral scientists tell us that we notice the following about another human being and in this order: Skin color, Sex, Age, Bearing (height, body language, etc.), Appearance, Direct Eye Contact, and Speech.

The first three we can do nothing about, but we can take advantage of this knowledge to enhance and control how to present the best image of ourselves.
Since 80% of what others see is our clothes, lets look at some basic faux pas:

1. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie. Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel. Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.
And the Button-Down collar dress shirt is not acceptable for dressy eveningwear (after 6 PM) nor with a double-breasted suit. That's because even though it's now a daytime business classic it was originally a sport shirt. The collar was buttoned-down by polo players to keep it from flapping in their faces.
2. Shoes are one of the most evaluated elements of men's wardrobes. Your shoes should be clean, shined, in good repair and appropriate for the occasion. If you are wearing a suit, wear lace-up shoes.

Don’t wear the same shoe on consecutive days and keep shoetrees in your shoes when you’re not wearing them.
3. Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and socks should cover your shins even when you cross your legs. Pants are long enough if they have a slight break in the front.

Pleats and cuffs are traditional and functional. Pleats let you sit down comfortably and cuffs add weight to the bottoms allowing for proper drape.

4. Never wear both a belt and braces (suspenders). You'll appear insecure.
5. Socks should match your trousers.
6. Belts should match your shoes.
7. Ties should reach your belt line. This is neither arbitrary nor negotiable. Too short of a tie makes you look like a rube.
8. Properly knotted ties have a “dimple” under the knot. Clips and tacks are out of date.
How to get a dimple under your knot?
Place your index finger in the middle of the tie just under where the knot is forming, pinch that part of the necktie between your thumb and middle finger and squeeze together as you pull it down and tighten the knot.



The necktie knot should hide the collar button.
9. Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority. However the bottom buttons of men's jackets are not designed to be buttoned, since King Edward VII gained weight, and started a fashion trend.
Single Breasted suits can have one, two, three or more buttons. Two and three button jackets are classic, one or more than three get you into the fashion forward arena, which is more suitable for social events than business. With two button jackets only the top button is fastened.
With three button jackets, you can close the middle, or middle and top button. Some suits are made so that the lapels roll to the middle button. On those suits you leave the top button unfastened. Some East Coast hipsters fasten only the top of three buttons!

Four or more button jackets may be designed to fasten all the buttons, even the bottom. If the bottom button of a four button can be closed without a noticeable pulling of the fabric, it’s ok to close or leave it open.
Double Breasted suits are the more formal of the two styles and can have four to six buttons with one or two “to button”. They are often identified by a two-number designation such as 4/2, 4/1 or 6/2 (also “four to two”).

Translated, the first number gives the total number of front buttons and the second is the number of functioning buttonholes. It doesn’t always mean that all the buttons have to be fastened.
Often only the middle or upper button is secured on a 4/2 or 6/2, but the Duke of Kent started buttoning only his lower button creating a longer diagonal line across his chest giving the wearer a thinner, more dynamic look.
Why do men never button the bottom button of your suit, sports jacket, vest or Cardigan sweater?
King Edward VII, “Bertie”, son of Victoria (1841 – 1910, King 1901 - 1910) was so heavy that he could not get the bottom button fastened on his vest or to be more historically kind, maybe he just forgot. His subjects taking it as a fashion statement followed his lead and today most men’s suits, sports jackets or vests are not designed to button the bottom button.

The tradition of not buttoning the bottom button may have also come from the early waistcoats, which were very long. It may have been out of necessity of being able to walk that the bottom buttons were left undone.
10. Suit and Sports jackets should fit properly which includes showing 1/4" to 1/2” of “linen” or shirtsleeve at the jacket sleeve.

We live in a complex, crowded society where considerate people dress appropriately for various places and occasions. Dressing appropriately is about respect for your fellow humans and our institutions.


Source : AskAndyaboutclothes.com


E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Essential Details In A Sports Coat Or Blazer

BLAZER OR SPORT COAT? Contrary to popular belief, they're not one and the same. The term blazer covers solid-colored jackets such as blue, black, camel or Masters green. The blazer is one of the most classic and versatile pieces of a man's wardrobe and can be worn with jeans, khakis or gray flannel trousers. It's equipped with brass buttons. Sport coats, or jackets, encompass just about everything else.

A GOOD FIT Few men can afford a custom-made jacket tailored to every inch of their bodies. So it's off the rack we go, and that's OK as long as you use a tailor for alterations. Though jackets are sized from a man's chest, they're built from the shoulders, and that's where a jacket should fit best. (A man's height determines whether he needs a regular, short or long jacket.) The shoulder's fit should be in proportion with your body, with generous armholes that allow you to wrap your arms around a trophy without lifting up the jacket. When buttoned, there should be enough room for a sweater or an extra five pounds.

TO THE TOUCH Fabrics to consider when buying a sport coat are winter, summer or 10 months. The latter is a jacket made from light, yet sturdy, wool in solids or classic menswear patterns suitable to wear 10 months of the year. It's a good buy if you have to wear a jacket now and then. Cashmeres and other wools lend themselves to great patterns--like glenplaid, houndstooth and checks--that are easy to layer with shirts and sweaters. Summer jackets usually are made from fine wool, which is lighter than cotton and is blended with fibers such as linen, silk or nylon.


THE LITTLE THINGS Details like lapel and collar width, pocket and button types define the latest styles. To play it safe, choose lapels with classic widths between three and four inches and with the tip of the lapel reaching about halfway between the collar and the shoulder. Pockets, too, should be kept simple. Vents, the slits on the back of the jacket, are meant for ease of movement. An "American" jacket has a single vent in the middle of the garment. The "British" has one at each hip. A ventless sport coat, that hugs the body, is called a "Continental" jacket. As for buttons: two-and three-button jackets are the norm these days.

THE FINER POINTS Why does one jacket cost $200 and another $3,000? It's the sum of the parts--better fabric, lining and buttons, a more intricate pattern and the amount of work done by hand. A designer's name adds value as well.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Denim Fashion Trends Of The Season

Many spring-summer 2010 fashion shows were carried out under the motto "militarism and craziness" and customized denim fashion revealed these tendencies as well. The most stylish jeans of the season spring-summer 2010 are skinny, torn, of dirty khaki, gray, blue or black colors. They are best of all combined with long sweaters or tops in military style. Other trends are the 1990s and a sexy look.

Dyed jeans are still in, this spring they come in skinny, straight, torn, short and long variants. Another reminder of the 1990s' fashion are custom jeans in grunge style which look as if they have been worn for several seasons. Boyfriend jeans are still popular too. For example, such jeans can be found in the latest collections of Ralph Lauren, Jean Paul Gaultier, Getwear or Versace. The latter fashion house presented its variation of boyfriend jeans wide on the thighs and tight on the ankles. Unique brand presented their vision of boyfriend style grunge jeans fitting women's figure, however they are also very relaxed and extremely worn.


Extraordinarily embellished subculture jeans will also be fashionable in the coming season.

Classical jeans are timeless and in the new season they are certainly worn as well.

Elegant skinny black jeans are a hit of the coming season, as well as cuts, jeggings and gray jeans. Another novelty of spring-summer 2010 is the use of denim patch pockets.

Denim shorts are of immediate interest during hot summer days. They are comfortable and practical. Spring-summer 2010 season presents ultrashort denim shorts of black and red colors. Torn shorts and shorts with cuts are also in. The best shoes to combine them with are ballerinas and shoes with high heels. The best accessories are massive colliers and bracelets, belt-bracelets and massive sunglasses as well as aviator sunglasses.

Jeans with corsage popular during the season autumn-winter 2009/2010 stay for spring and summer, too. Made to measure jeans with corsage are embellished with buttons and lacing and look exquisite especially in dark colors. Such jeans make your waist look slimmer and your legs visually longer, their importance can not be overstated. The best way is to combine jeans with corsage with a white blouse, short bolero or a jeans jacket. All the more so, double denim stays popular during the coming season, too.

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

How To Choose Double Breasted Suit

The return of the much-hyped original 1980’s power suit is slated for this fall season. Most of the major designers of men’s apparels, ranging from Armani, Zegna and Tom Ford, featured their double-breasted suit in their collections during the recent NY fashion week. While what may seem, at first, the same piece as that of the 80’s power suit, many major differences, in abundant measure, can be noted in this latest incarnation of the double-breasted suit which makes it a more trendy piece of clothing.

The double-breasted suit dates back to a time much earlier than the 1980’s. It is remembered as a Reagan era suit which one would wear when he meant business. The main point is that these suits were cut the 80’s way as it featured wider lapels, huge shoulder padding, low button stances, triple-pleated trousers and a high rise. Slim and trim, tailored silhouette forms today’s modern double-breasted suit’s best design. In simple words, there is a huge difference between the 1980’s version and today’s.

Darker colors are always the way to go. This is one fact that hasn’t changed all through the years when it comes to double-breasted suits. A darker suit matches almost everybody’s skin tone and also conveys the expression of authority. Almost every CEO owns a closet full of dark suits. Choose a suit in either a dark black charcoal or a navy blue color. Soft and subtle patterns go well with double-breasted suits as they don’t necessarily require help from any type of bold fabrics and also manage to attract enough attention.

Double-breasted suits can be kept buttoned which in turn will give you a slim look. Consider wearing a tie along with the suit even though it would seem a little stuffy. But, then again, this is another reason why the double-breasted suits became the power suit of the 1980’s and 30 years later too, it is still said to be so.


A double-breasted suit has two rows of buttons and the front overlaps sufficiently to allow both flaps to be attached to the opposite row of buttons. Tall and thin gentlemen would benefit greatly from double-breasted suits as these suits would give them a matching appearance to their physique. These suits can however draw attention to the midsection in the case of men of heavy stock. Therefore, careful attention is required and an expert tailor must be employed.

Lapels can be found with a number of options in a variety of styles. The width of the lapels is always considered an important factor with the extremely-narrow lapels of the 1950’s standing in stark contrast to the excessively-wide lapels of the 1970’s. However, lapels of moderate width are considered timeless in the case of classic fashion. Suit lapels also come in two styles in accordance with different widths. The two styles are: notched, which has a wide V-shaped opening where the lapel and collar join; and peaked, which flares out in a sharp point with a very narrow deep V at the joint. Both notched and peaked lapels are equally classic. Although peaked lapels are often found on double-breasted jackets.

The flap-like slits found at the bottom of the jacket which accommodate movement and offer easy access to the trouser pockets are known as vents. Jackets usually have three styles: center, side, and none. Ventless jackets, just as the name implies, have no vents, and are popular on Continental suits. Even though it can lead to wrinkling when the wearer sits down, they provide a sleek look to the back of the jacket. Center-vented jackets, usually very popular on American suits, have only a single slit at the back, allowing the jacket to expand at the bottom when sitting. A side-vented jacket has two vents, one on either side, generally just behind the trouser pockets, to provide easy access.

These are some of the points that need to be taken into consideration before selecting a double-breasted suit

E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com

Dressing For Success

DRESSING FOR YOUR NEXT POSITION

Power dressing means looking ahead, knowing the path you want to take, and preparing yourself for it in every way. You wouldn’t expect to be hired for a job and then acquire the skills necessary to do it. The same is true for your look: The higher you rise, the more subtle the cues. No one is going to run the risk of “We’ll see if he’s up to it or ends up looking the part.” You have to look and act your future now. Dress for tomorrow. Act as though you’ve already reached your goals and you’re halfway there.
HOW TO LOOK MORE

Professional : Wear a suit. If you already wear a suit, upgrade your suit-better fabric, better tailoring Choose details that instantly signal polish and decorum, such as sleek high heels, a crisp, collared shirt, or pearls. Other symbols of corporate credibility:
Dark colors and immaculate grooming, and anything that suggests utter organization,

Responsible/Reliable: Make sure every detail is attended to.
Have a great haircut. Get a manicure. Organize the elements in your handbag. Have your shoes polished.

Management-worthy : Good management is a balance between approachability and authority. Cultivate a refined mix of the two styles by giving a laid-back look a single splash of authority. For a softer corporate look., wear a suede jacket with a pencil skirt and high heels. Or choose a relaxed beige suit-khakis with a sleek suit jacket.

Independent : Take a risk. Deviate from the norm. If your colleagues are stuck in a middle-of-the-road business appropriate rut, wear a suit. Wear it with a colorful blouse. If you’re surrounded by suits, wear your with a denim shirt. Or red stilettos. If you wear glasses, choose frames that express your style. If you don’t wear glasses, consider getting a pair as a fashion statement.

Open : Unbutton your shirt collar a little.Don’t lacquer every hair in place with spray. Try a sweater set in place of a suit jacket.
Every once meaning or a pair of feminine sling backs.

Creative : Express a little personal style. Wear a scarf in your hair. Test drive the latest trendy shoes. Try the season’s key-lime green, gypsy purple. Wear a necklace, bracelet, or earrings that you love. Tamper with the corporate dress code.

Authoritative : Upgrade your suits. Upgrade your shoes, your handbag, and your coat-fine fabric and expert handwork indicate serious business. Wear details that signal power and command, such as pinstripes or the color red. Invest in a high-quality, signature accessory, like a Hermes scarf or a designer handbag.


We Remain with Best Regards,
E-tailor at www.mycustomtailor.com